I found this recipe in my drafts post folder, one first started it looks like, some 18 months back; ‘Rona brain fog means that I can’t now — for the life of me — recall where I originally found it or whose it is and my Google search foo seems to have totally deserted me as well. If anyone does recognise the source, please do get in touch, so I can credit the cook &/or recipe-author appropriately!
The rather good local butcher in Buckden used to be able to get me a regular supply of pigs’ cheeks for the face bacon I made; whether they can also get me an intact, ‘filled’ whole head is currently unclear (although it doesn’t appear to be banned by DEFRA regs).
I’m not sure therefore that I won’t just have to find a local pig farmer who’s prepared to slip me a head whilst pretending to know nothing of any such sale. That the recipe doesn’t actually require me to use the brains helps…
This apparently will serve between 10 and 15 people, depending on size of the pig’s head. Not sure that’s of much help judging but anyway.
INGREDIENTS
1 pig’s head, split length-wise down the centre
7% brine
1 litre white wine
1 large white onion, cut in half
1 bunch of celery, cut in half (across)
1 carrot, cut in half
4 bay leaves
1 clove
1 bulb of garlic, cut in half (horizontally)
6 allspice berries
a handful of white peppercorns
2 handfuls of flat-leaf parsley leaves, chopped
Wholegrain mustard
50ml fresh lemon juice
PREPARATION
Remove the brain from the pig’s head. Remove the ears from the head. Clean the head and the ears well using an abrasive sponge. Burn the hairs off both using a kitchen blowtorch. Brine them in a 7% brine solution in the fridge, or a cool place, for 8 hours.
Drain the head and ears from the brine. Preheat the oven to 140°C.
Pour the wine into an ovenproof pot or flameproof casserole that the head and ears will fit into snugly. Bring to the boil for 2 minutes to evaporate some of the alcohol.
Slightly char the onion, celery and carrot on a barbecue, or on a hot ridged grill pan, for flavour, then add to the pot. Add the bay leaves, clove, garlic, allspice berries and peppercorns. Finally, add the pig’s head and ears and top up with water to cover. Put a lid on the pot and place in the oven to cook for 5–6 hours or until the meat is falling off the bone.
Remove the head and ears from the stock. Strain the stock into another pan and boil to reduce it by two-thirds so that it is highly seasoned and strong in gelatine.
Pick the meat off the head. Roughly chop half of the skin and fat from the head and mix with the meat. Slice the ears into thin strips and mix in. Season the meat mixture with the parsley, lemon juice and mustard to taste. Mix some of the reduced stock through the mixture so that it has a stew-like consistency. Taste and season with salt if required.
Pour the mixture into a terrine mould lined with clingfilm. Cover the top with clingfilm and weigh down with a light weight, enough to just press the brawn gently into shape. Leave to set overnight in the fridge.
About 20 minutes before serving, turn the brawn out of the terrine mould and remove the clingfilm. Slice the brawn into 2–3cm pieces. Leave to come up to room temperature.
ASSEMBLY
Breakfast radishes
Radish tops
Pickled radishes
Capers, drained
Miner’s lettuce
Dijon mustard
Maldon sea salt
Toasted sourdough or fresh warm bread
Serve a slice of brawn on each plate with a side of radishes, radish tops, pickled radishes, capers and miner’s lettuce and some Maldon salt crystals. Put a spoonful of Dijon mustard into a small ramekin at the side. It’s best served with some slices of toasted sourdough or fresh warm bread.
With any luck, it should some out looking a lot like this one…
