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Old caffs

Long, long, long ago, back when the Earth was young & the Old Gods still walked the land, there was a caff. A pretty rubbish caff, all of the bad connotations behind the words “greasy spoon” and, in memory, none… Read More »Old caffs

1970s Manchester

Deracinated haggis

Lamb shoulder is sometimes used in American versions of haggis, as a replacement for lung. I’m not sure how many lungs we can get from our local farmer but pretty sure they’ll have enough for The Great Haggis Project™. Looking… Read More »Deracinated haggis

Macsween Haggis

On chinmi & patience

Writer Jenny Linford’s @jennylinford “The Missing Ingredient: The Curious Role of Time in Food and Flavour” speaks to the centre-pole of any form of “cooking” (using that word in its very widest sense, that of in some manner or other, preparing… Read More »On chinmi & patience

Writer Thom Eagle's books

Food is community.

Asturian chef José Andrés setup World Central Kitchen in 2010 and since has regularly partnered with local cooks and restaurants and suppliers to feed people who are hungry, starving, in need to comfort and warmth, inc. in Haiti, Puerto Rico… Read More »Food is community.

World Central Kitchen in action


I know I’m not alone — Val concurs —  in finding this whole “carry on as normal, work, eat, sleep, repeat” shit a little hard to pay attention to. A little tricky to whip up any enthusiasm for much of… Read More »IDGAF

Graven Image by John Fairleigh

“Bad day at the office, dear?”

My suggested “go-to” is a congee, here via the estimable @madamehuang, which soothes the soul. From her excellent “The Dim Sum Field Guide: A Taxonomy of Dumplings, Buns, Meats, Sweets, and Other Specialties of the Chinese Teahouse“…

A plate of congee

Smoked mushroom garum?

Am I interested in trying this one? Yes, of course. It’s a garum after all and one made using koji, not the kinda canonical fish guts. Interested enough to pay the £18 they’re extorting plus whatever horrendous shipping charges the courier will impose plus… Read More »Smoked mushroom garum?

Noma Smoked Mushroom garum

Once upon a time, via Anatolia

Until I read this 2021 Vittles London “What Is Kurdish Food” piece, I’d not (consciously) heard of Musa Dağdeviren. That’s on me of course, as he’s possibly the most famous extant Turkish chef — ‘the saviour of Turkish cuisine’, or… Read More »Once upon a time, via Anatolia

Horoz Etli Güveç