Skip to content

On “Taking Taiwan (By Taste)”.

Length: 2 mins

The second solo LP by — post-Roxy Music — Brian Eno dates from 1974 (and is still a real banger by the way) and has been described thus

“… inspired by a series of postcards depicting a Chinese revolutionary opera titled Taking Tiger Mountain by Strategy. Eno described his understanding of the title as referring to “the dichotomy between the archaic and the progressive. Half Taking Tiger Mountain – that Middle Ages physical feel of storming a military position – and half (By Strategy) – that very, very 20th-century mental concept of a tactical interaction of systems.”

With that (oblique strategic starter paragraph) I feel that’s pretty much all I have — or am qualified — to say, even indirectly, about the current geo-political situation vis a vis Taiwan and the PRC. I’m not Chinese or Taiwanese. Stating, “it’s complicated”, is a fair summary.

And on that note, I commend to you, a new book on. the food of Taiwan, by freelance journalist Clarissa Wei. Whilst her parents (& grand-parents) were from Taiwan, she was born and raised in Los Angeles, although she now resides in Taipei, with her family. There’s an excellent LA Times piece that speaks to her gradual burgeoning interest in the food-ways of Taiwan, a growing awareness of the ongoing divide between Taiwan and its close neighbour across the Straits and the political routes (& routs) that had been the back-drop to their history.

To quote her:

“…all I can do is celebrate our humanity through the lens of food. I hope the world can see Taiwan as more than just a geopolitical chess piece or a controversial island near China with great night markets. Despite the occasional bouts of amnesia due to colonial influences, for generations and centuries we have considered ourselves our own people.”

I‘ve bought the digital edition, mainly so that I can copy & paste stuff as needed but the paper copy looks equally well worth an investment of your pounds, renminbi or (US or Taiwan) dollars when it ships later this month in the UK.

Pork is an important part of Taiwanese cooking, as she notes “a source of pride, food, and offering.” so it’s only right that she describes lard so lovingly…

In Taiwan, we use the phrase “ancient early taste” (gü zão wei)  to describe foods of yesteryear-dishes that remind us of grandma’s house and the street foods of our childhood. And in the course of writing this book,  discovered that lard is the secret ingredient that’s responsible for conjuring up that nostalgic flavo(u)r.

And she’s also seen fit to release two pork based recipes — for free — via a couple of US sites which I’ve appended below.

A fried pork chop in a stainless steel bento box, with rice and pickles and salad in the other half, and a pair of metal chopsticks.

Fried Pork Chop 炸排骨

[pdf-embedder url=”https://salutethepig.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/Fried-Pork-Chop-Recipe-Epicurious.pdf” title=”Fried Pork Chop Recipe | Epicurious”]

I love the bento box in this photo from the book; the Taiwan State Railway used to supply these (& they were then supposed to be returned, to be washed & re-used) but apparently too many went missing, people “forgetting” and taking them home, so the supply was discontinued; I would rather like to find one of these on eBay…

Pork. In a chop. Fried. Sheer poetry people. sheer fucking poetry. Followed by…

Braised Minced Pork Belly 肉燥飯

[pdf-embedder url=”https://salutethepig.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/Braised-Minced-Pork-Belly-Recipe-Los-Angeles-Times.pdf” title=”Braised Minced Pork Belly Recipe – Los Angeles Times”]

A simple looking dish. Joyful though. People, start your fryers and your chopsticks.

Optimized by Optimole Skip to content