Ramen cooks are the punks of the food world in Japan

I’ve started reading the Bone Daddies book. A full-on ramen (and many other delights) joint where they’re so hard-core that there are even extra pipettes of fat to mainline straight into the bowl, just on the off-chance that having an entire, wrung-out pig in it already, just isn’t quite enough fat & collagen for you.

A book which, in true Japanese manga style, is read wrongly (to Western eyes), from back to front. There’s even a helpful hint on the ‘front’ cover.

“Turn me over”…

Bones Daddies recipe book

Highly recommended already. It has the same vibe as the one from Pitt Cue that came out some years back; the same cooking expertise, the same love of food & ingredients, the same commitment to excellence & no corner cutting, the same love of rock ‘n roll music.

This is them making the tonkotsu pork broth; pork bones boiled for anything up to 24 hours (or longer) until every scrap of marrow and fat and collagen has melted into a witches-brew, milky-hued, alchemists’ wonder, thick with flavour and intense with umami.

And this is exactly the process I use. Who knew how exactly on point I was eh? Just slightly less exotic gear in my kitchen. And the quantities aren’t quite of this industrial level. But, those mere quibbles aside, it’s me to a T. Honest guv’.

They remind me also of Mathew Ramsey whose “Pornburger” has also been a reliable source of recipes since it came out. He’s a Michelin star level chef but appears to be quite content running pop-ups and pushing out cheap puns. And none the worse for that.

The Mathew Ramsey Pickleback

The Mathew Ramsey Pickleback

There’s a Bourdanian, “Get Jiro!” feel to some of the graphics from Ramsey’s book…

Anthony Bourdain's "Get Jiro!"

Anthony Bourdain’s “Get Jiro!” ©Vertigo

And in the month of the first anniversary of his untimely — to his family, friends and fans — death, that’s no bad thing at all.

Three books to seek out, read, enjoy, cook from. If you’re cooking this weekend; may your sauces not split. If you’re eating this weekend; may your appetite not dull. Have a good one y’all.

About Salute The Pig

Charcuterie, smoking, curing, brining and all things porcine. Brought to you from deepest, darkest Cambs, England by Chris Bulow. In the smoker or in the kitchen.... Salutate porcum!
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