Cato The Younger, Roman philosopher, writer and politician also loved his ham. This recipe for salting a ham comes via the very marvellous Mark Kurlansky’s book, “Salt”. Of course, Cato’s hams came from Germany. Need I say more? His preservation recipe needs no changes. Some things don’t.
After buying legs of pork cut off the feet. ½ peck ground Roman salt per ham. Spread the salt in the base of a vat or jar, then place a ham with the skin facing downwards. Cover completely with salt. Then place another above it and cover in the same way. Be careful not to let meat touch meat. Cover them all in the same way. When all are arranged, cover the top with salt so that no meat is seen, and level it off.
After standing in salt for five days, take all hams out with the salt. Put those that were above below, and so rearrange and replace. After a total of twelve days take out the hams, clean off all the salt and hang in the fresh air for two days. On the third day clean off with a sponge, rub all over with oil, hang in smoke for two days. On the third day take down, rub all over with a mixture of oil and vinegar and hang in the meat store. Neither moths nor worms will attack it.—Cato, De agricultura, second century b.c.
